Over the past several years, Kevin’s Stonefly has become our number one trout producing fly here at Davidson River Outfitters. Kevin designed this fly to meet the needs of the slightly smaller stoneflies found here in the Southeast. This fly has become so effective that Kevin’s Stonefly has been featured in two national magazines, and on two national television shows. We have found this fly effective everywhere there are stoneflies, and even on Great Lakes Steelhead.
Hook: Mustad 79580 6-14
Underbody: lead wire .015—.035
Thread: Black 6/0 Uni Thread
Abdomen: Peacock herl
Shell back: Treated turkey tail
Ribbing: 32 gauge gold wire
Legs: Brown goose biots
Hackle: Soft webby grizzly
Thorax: Medium cream chenille
Step 1: Insert hook in the vise and wrap shank with desired amount of lead wire. Wrap thread over the lead wire to secure it to the hook. At this point, the thread should be behind the lead wire and immediately in front of the bend of the hook. Coat wire with head cement to ensure a durable body. For a flatter wider body flatten the wire with a pair of smooth jaw needle nose pliers.
Step 2: Cut two brown goose biots from a goose quill. Tie one quill on the backside of the hook to form half of the tail. Tie another biot oppo-site the first one. The natural curve of the biots should point away from the hook (after they have been tied in place). Also, the length of the tail should be approximately the same length as the shank of the hook. Rubber legs can be substituted to give your fly more action.
Step 3: On top of the hook, and at the same point that the biots were tied in, tie in a section of turkey tail that has been treated with clear Krylon. The turkey will be used to form the back and wing case for the fly.
Step 4: Depending on the size of the fly, tie in three to five strands of peacock herl. Also, at the same point, tie in a piece of Brassie sized gold wire.
Step 5: Wind thread to approximately the mid-section of the hook shank. Wind the peacock herl up to the thread, tie off, and clip excess. To improve the durability of the fly, wind the thread back and forth through the peacock body. You may also coat the hook with head ce-ment and wind the peacock through it to make the fly more durable.
Step 6: Pull the turkey quill over the peacock body that you just formed and tie it down at the mid point of the hook shank. Do not clip excess quill as it will be used to form the wing case.
Step 7: Palmer the bead wire through the body and over the top of the turkey quill, leaving a small amount of space between each turn. Tie the wire down at the mid point and clip off the excess wire.
Step 8: Immediately in front of the peacock body, tie in a piece of me-dium sized, cream colored chenille. Also, at the same point, tie in an oversized grizzly hackle. White chenille may be substituted if cream is not available.
Step 9: Bring your tying thread to about 1/16 of an inch behind the eye. Now palmer the chenille forward to the thread tie off and clip ex-cess. Now palmer the grizzly hackle forward to the eye tie off and clip excess. Place a whip finish or half hitch at this point before proceeding to step 10.
Step 10: Remove the fly from the vise. Clip all of the grizzly hackle fibers from the top of the fly. Clip the sides at a v shape closest to the chenille at the front and clip the bottom to a length that equals the gap of the hook
Step 11: Replace the fly in the vise. Pull the turkey quill over the top of the thorax to form a wing case. Tie off and clip excess.
Step 12: Clip two brown biots. The natural curve of the biots should be away from the fly body. The biots should be about 3/4 of the length of the hook shank. Build a small thread head and whip finish. Rubber legs can be substituted for the biots to give the fly more movement in the water.